Tucked between Gwanghwamun and Jonggak stations at 78 Sambong-ro, Jongno Dodam is easy to miss: a weathered cream facade, a row of onggi jars by the door, and glass office towers looming overhead. Step inside and it turns warm and rustic, with exposed brick, timber-clad walls, Edison bulbs and tall windows framing the ginkgo trees outside. It’s a lunchtime favourite for Jongno office workers, who queue on weekdays for the kimchi-jjim set (₩12,000, minimum two people) with free rice and self-serve makgeolli refills. We came on a weekend, so we ordered from the main menu.
The Food Review
The star of our lunch was the buchujeon (garlic chive pancake, ₩15,000). It arrived on a woven basket as a wide disc of chives fried until the edges shattered. The crunch was savoury and almost tempura-like, and it never turned greasy. With a dunk in the soy-scallion dip, it’s hard to stop eating. It carries a “BEST” tag on the menu, and it earns it.
The kimchi-jjim (braised kimchi with pork, from ₩24,000 for two) is the house signature. Well-aged cabbage is braised with chunky pork until it’s tender enough to pull apart with chopsticks. It’s a classic, homestyle version rather than a showstopper, and it’s best spooned generously over rice.
Regulars also order the Jongno bossam (₩30,000 small), which comes with refillable house kimchi, and the black sesame fried pork. A trio of banchan rounds out the table. Save room for the drinks list, too: it’s a curated lineup of craft makgeolli, including the award-winning Paju Unjeong and a crisp apple makgeolli from Yesan.
The Verdict
Jongno Dodam is a reliable, wallet-friendly spot for hearty Korean comfort food in central Seoul. Come for the kimchi-jjim, stay for the outrageously crispy buchujeon, and order a bottle of makgeolli with it. For the best value, go at weekday lunch for the set menu.
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